Now that I have access to the shutter on my Yashica-Mat LM, it's time to figure out what is wrong with it.
The shutter is in the closed position at the moment. When I cock the shutter and press the release button nothing happens. The lever that
First step is to determine, whether the shutter cocks and releases, but doesn't open, or it is cocked and can't get released.
The shutter is an independent sub-assy, so you can move the cocking lever and the release lever by hand, the
Thanks Marek,
The M-X lever does indeed make the whirring sound when I set it from X to M, which is what my working Yashica-Mat does, so I think that part may be fine.
When I cock the shutter with the cocking lever, and press the shu
Oh and yes, I've tried operating these levers directly on the shutter and still no 'click'.
How hard is the tensioning lever to move?
If the shutter is cocked (and can't get released) you press only against a weak return spring that makes the lever go back after cocking shutter. If the shutter isn't cocked because the main catch isn't c
Hello Marek,
To be honest I've never taken apart a diaphragm on a camera. I may need the full descrition if you have the time.
The timer does not work, although now that I've tried testing it I now have both the timer lever and the
Oh and yes, the cocking lever was quite easy to turn and there was little resistance when I would do the cocking motion to return it back to position. I have the camera disassembled at the moment so I can't test that right at this moment.
If it helps, I think the shutter is jammed in the cocked position.
Okay, sorry for the delay, I'm on holiday.
At each step it's a good idea to take a picture of what you are going to remove with a digicam or even a better camera phone. Especially pay attention to spring ends (their hook points as well
Now you should have the shutter in your hands.
Step 6: The front is held by a notched ring. This ring is a screw nut - it unscrews, but is secured by means of either a normal tiny screw, or an eccentric latch. Either you need to unscrew the sm
Hello Marek,
Here is the shutter, open to the world.
(https://kyp.hauslendale.com/classics/forum/messages/2/19174.jpg)
I was not sure what you meant by 'E' clip in regards to the self-timer assembly.
Here is
Alex, right now I'm hanging on GPRS connection, so I will not be able to uplooad pictures, too slow. I will try to describe as much as I can, the rest will have to wait till Tuesday.
1. Identifying what is what:
- From about 11 o'clo
Note: from now on I suggest you wear thin latex/rubber household gloves. Skin oil corrodes and there are parts here that rely on smooth sliding against each other. Check the gloves' fingertips often and replace them as soon as they get mucked up with gr
Hi Marek,
I was out on a day trip today and didn't get to the shutter.
I will certainly keep an eye out for a possible 'E' clip loose inside the shutter. I will post my findings as soon as I get back to it.
Thanks,
Alex
Hello Marek,
I finally fgured out the self-timer and what was keeping it attached. This design has a small screw similar to the screw that keeps the shutter cover nut from turning. One quarter turn let the self-timer loose. I added arrows pointin
Identifying parts II:
(https://kyp.hauslendale.com/classics/forum/messages/2/19211.jpg)
description follows in next post.
Pin 1 releases the shutter when moved inwards. Lever 2 with pin 3 is responsible for B setting. In position as it is now it will 'catch' the main latch in 'open' position (you can't see the interaction easily).
Part 4 is the main delay catch.
- Pin 11 sits on shutter activator ring. This ring moves clockwise to open the leaves and ccw to close them again. it sits below the floor now, you can see it through gaps around the center part, between number 11 and 3. Flushing shutter with naphta u
Hi Marek,
I tried wiggling the levers you mentioned with a toothpick and they are all pretty jammed. It feels jammed in a mechanical way as opposed to old grease.
I did notice one thing that may give you a clue. When turning the aperture r
I put a lot of work in describing things. Invest at least equally much time in answering all my suggestions with your observations, not only the very last sentence.
Else all my attempts to help you are void.
Marek
Hi Marek,
Sorry about that.
When I moved pin 7 gently, it felt jammed but there was a very slight movement of the gears in the area between 8 and 9.
Moving the main shutter release lever did nothing I could see, and I noticed th
When I mentioned lever 3 I meant pin 3.
AAAAAAAAAARGH 15 minutes typing and board server returns an error :/
1) does anything happen when you press pin 1 towards shutter center?
2) nothing -> When pin 1 is pressed towards center, can you move lever 4 clockwise? (use a small scre
http://img651.imageshack.us/img651/8859/201003232103005611.jpg (http://img651.imageshack.us/img651/8859/201003232103005611.jpg%20target=_blank)
The yellow metal is the X-Sync contact. The half-circle pin is connected to activator ring, as
Hi Marek,
Here is the report so far:
I looked at the X-contact area and everything seems to be there and in the correct position.
You: 1) does anything happen when you press pin 1 towards shutter center?
Yes, the shutter re
I'm out for a day, so more will follow later:
no, it's not bad news. The rest of the shutter is pretty much unbreakable by user input, so if the retarder is okay after cleaning, I'd say you are facing a stripdown but chances to fix it are
Hi Marek,
I soaked the retarder overnight, only because I had placed it in the fuel right before going to bed. The gears seem to be working this morning when pin 8 is nudged towards the center. I don't know how much movement I should be expec
The little 2/5 part-round gear below pin 7 may not be meshing well with the small black gear it is in contact with. There is barely perceptible movement of this gear when I nudge pin 8 towards center. Nudging pin 7 or lever 6 barely moves anything, the
No, it doesn't Lever 6 moves in a healthy shutter by some 45-60? (1/8th-1/6th of a full turn) causing all other gears to spin several times around.
Pin 8 only switches gears, like the gearbox in a car. When pressed 'in' (towards center of
Hi Marek,
I'll soak the retarder in WD40 per your earlier instructions, as something is still binding it.
Is there anything else I should do to the retarder at this point? Is it too risky to take it apart, or at least for a newby lik
The only thing I'd do to the escapement at this point is to inspect it very close for any foreign objects - hair, piece of wire, etc - that might be tangled between the teeth.
Also, have a look if the pin 8 really moves gears around. I'm not
Hello Marek,
Here is the report so far.
The good news is the shutter itself has come back to life after 48 hours in lighter fluid.
I found the problem with the retarder as well. I found the gear that is jammed. Even after 24 hours i
If I remember correctly, this gear moves on an axle (i.e. it has a hole in the middle), as opposed to other gears, that move with their respective axles set in bushings. If it is so, then I'd say, that's the reason: contact are
Hi Marek,
I'll place the escapement in WD40 for a few days then back into solvent to see if that loosens anything before resorting to disassembly.
Thanks,
Alex
I'd mix some solvent with this WD40, something nasty, go to the next car shop and ask for brake cleaner, ask for something made for workshops and not for ladies, if you have choice opt for the chlorinated environmentally unfriendly version (uses
Hi Marek,
Tetrachloride is illegal in this part of the country, so I'll be trying something else. I'll take a look at what the local auto repair place has handy.
Thanks,
Alex
Then get either the revised-formula non-chlorinated brake cleaner, or the carb cleaner, they both are meant to remove stubborn stuff without eating aluminum, brass or steel.
Pity about banning tetrachloride. As with many other chemicals I'd
I disassembled the retarder briefly to see if I could loosen the gear. It is still immovable, you would think it was welded on by how jammed it is. I re-assembled the retarder while I had everything fresh in my mind. At least I know how to do it and I m
Hi Marek,
It is currently sitting in what is sold here as brake cleaner. Even though it is not chlorinated, it still sounds like pretty nasty stuff. The ingredients include Acetone, Heptane, Methane, Toluene, and Carbon Dioxide.
You are welcome, glad to see you progress!
If brake cleaner won't get it to move, I'd try getting a pair of rubber gloves and twisting the gear gently there and back, payint attention not to bend the lever and pin the gear is mounted on.
Hi Marek,
Here is the latest report. I was successful in loosening the gear. There was some orange colored substance cementing it to the pin, possibly rust or old grease/oil. I put the retarder back together and put it back into the shutter. I
The problem you are encountering is most likely related to the release mechanism still having gunk in it. When you press the release button you trip the delay timer for magnesium flash (the delay escapement is locked when you set it to X, but the levers
Sounds good. I will do that.
Thanks,
Alex
Hi Marek,
The shutter is working in all settings now!
Now that everything on the shutter is working, I have yet to lubricate anything. To which points should I add the fine watch oil? Will I need any other oil or dry lubricant?
T
Hi Marek,
The irony is that while testing out the now working shutter, the cocking lever jammed. I guess that's the risk I take in restoring a camera that hasn't been used for 40 years.
I removed the front of the camera to isolate th
Watch it, the double exposure prevention is in the winding ratchet side, so if when putthing shutter back you misaligned the levers it won't release.
Check this first.
Marek
That may be the problem. I will take a look.
Hi Marek,
You were right, I must have misaligned the levers. The camera is fine now.
At which points on the shutter should I place minute amounts of lubricant?
Also, do you think I may have future problems since I didn't take
From what I've read, the Copal shutter does not need lubricant of any sort.
I will leave it dry unless I hear otherwise. The shutter seems to be working fine. What a long strange trip it's been...and now I have a working camera again.
(:
Hi, sorry for late answer.
As for lubricating shutters:
It's better to leave it dry than use wrong lubricants, but best is to lubricate it right.
Many suggest (imho wrongly) using different sorts of graphite emulsions - graphite is abrasive
Hi Marek,
Thanks for the detailed instructions, I will print this out and use it as reference.
I don't have a shutter speed tester at the moment, but I will take a look at those plans I've heard about for making your own.
So fa
Thanks for posting that Marek,that is excellent info,as is most everything else you pass on to us.Ron G
I want to echo Ron's comment. Thanks to both of you and especially Marek's patience and never ending help. While this was going on, he also helped me on a Yashica as well.
Both of you should win the tenacity award for staying with this fo
Thanks guys ;0)
@Alex: the simplest shutter tester is a photodiode and a mono microphone plug (connected with a piece of wire of course). Polarity doesn't matter, you just have to think either straight or upside-down when reading results.
(
Corrected image: http://img833.imageshack.us/img833/3241/soundcardshuttersignal.png (http://img833.imageshack.us/img833/3241/soundcardshuttersignal.png%20target=_blank)
That is what I have been using to test my shutter speeds.I am using an LED flashlight for a signal and audacity to read the output on my computer monitor.
The combination seems very consistant but I really cannot say how accurate it is but since I can
Hi Marek,
I am having a few technical difficulties with the computer, although re-reading your instructions it may be due to the fact that I was using a stereo plug instead of mono. I will report my findings once I get things working with my co
Alex,
it doesn't matter if the plug is stereo or mono, just remember to connect one leg of a photodiode to the contact going to the tip of the jack, and the other leg to the base (the middle ring of a stereo jack remains unconnected).
If
Alex, I'm off for a week of holiday and will be off-line till about 08.08, so if you make any progress, do post about it - I will check this thread after I'm back.
Good luck!
Marek
Thanks Marek,
I did indeed get supplies from Radio Shack, including the diodes. I get no signal. I will look into buying better quality components. I may have to check and see if the mic jack is even working on my computer. It may be a combinat
Alex,here is a simple schematic of a typical soundcard based shutter tester.Mine is similar.
http://www.davidrichert.com/sound_card_shutter_tester.htm (http://www.davidrichert.com/sound_card_shutter_tester.htm%20target=_blank)
There are a f
Try the circuit from Ron, it works best albeit requires power.
To check the PC side, just plug a mike jack in, nothing attached, you should get noticeable increase in signal level as soon as you touch middle contact with your bare finger. If yo
Hi Marek,
I checked the PC at home and there seems to be a problem with the sound board, so I checked the one I use at work and it is fine. I guess I will be using the work computer, maybe during lunch break, to check my shutter speeds. (:
I have been busy the last few months and haven't had a chance to get back to the camera. I bought a new computer, so hopefully I will get a chance to try your shutter tester soon.
and thanks again for your help.
Alex
Have fun with it.Ron G
WOW, Nice write up guys.
hope to hear the end of it ;)
Marek
Well, the saga continues unfortunately. I finally got back to the camera and I tried putting a roll of film through it and have found that the winding mechanism is not working. When you wind the crank, the winder inside the camera seems to be dis-enga
I will follow the new topic, here:
https://kyp.hauslendale.com/classics/forum/messages/2/22192.html?1311278539 (https://www.hauslendale.com/kyp/index.php?topic=809)
this old one left to the history ;)
I know this is a very old thread but i want to put it here that this is so far the most comprehensive, detailed and least intimidating DIY guidance i have seen on camera repair. The flow of question and answer is very easy to follow as each one logicall