Log in

[Bengi]

The shutter is fine, but no led, no nothing. I removed top and botttom covers and all small wires seems connected. Is there any specific part to look at?  Capacitors or else?
 
Thanks,
 
Ben

[Hovaness]

Check for correct voltage from the battery compartment to the flex circuit.

[Bengi]

It is actually an ME_F, so 6 volts. BTW: I tested the two wires indicated in the following pictures (assuming the red is + and the blue is -) and I got 6 volts. Looking carefully there are some differences between this flex and the ME Super one.
Advi

[Bengi]

This is the picture:
 
ME F
http://homepage.mac.com/bengi/files/ME_F.jpg
 
ME Super
http://homepage.ma

[Hovaness]

The next thing to check is voltage at the shutter release switch. If you examine the shutter release mechanism, you will see the contacts that close when the release is pressed. This is what turns on the meter circuitry. If this switch is OK, then you

[Bengi]

Thanks Hovaness, what you say is corect: At some point, it becomes cheaper to spend $50 on eBay for a working Pentax body.
 
That's the problem! This reimind me an older thread: https://ky

[Hovaness]

In my opinion, the most satisfying cameras to restore are the Pentax MX, Konica T3 and the Minolta SRT series. The electronics are simple and repairable, and it is relatively easy to recalibrate the meters (T3 and SRT) to work with silver cells. The

[Bengi]

I have just finished to replace seals in my MX, so I profitted by the occasion to remove the top cover. It is metal, while in the other M series (including the very first MEs) it is plastic.
 
BTW the interios looks quite similar to the ME Super