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[Steve_s]

If the take-up spool moved when you turned the sprocket spindle, then the gear above it must be free. It is not too easy to turn from above. I was pushing it with a screwdriver - I'm not sure you could turn it with a needle. There is not a lot of clea

[L_n_h]

The 2 screws you mention holding the mechanism are present and tight, but thanks for the suggestion.  
Incidentally, the loose screw has only a slightly thicker head than the 2 back brass top plate screws. The difference is so small youd probably no

[Steve_s]

First, regarding the mystery screw and your front-plate assembly. The scrap camera I am working with is a PLC3 which had electric lens and a totally different metering system. Immediately below the 3 springs is a bracket holding a pair of electric conta

[Steve_s]

I find you can just see the 3rd screw for the release meechanism without taking off the self-timer if you get the light in the right direction, so have a look first. It is just above a shiny spring. If you can't see it, it is probably not there!

[L_n_h]

Youve done it (twice)!
(I'll be brief as my mouse froze and I just lost a longer message.)
Firstly, the mystery screw fits into the 3rd hole -it only goed in crooked -even after 2 attempts and loosening the other 2 screws to give the whole mech

[L_n_h]

Ps One other question: on reassembling the bottom push button. Theres a sliding lever which holds it in place, and the button has to be pressed in for that to happen - otherwise the button just falls out when the bottom plate is off. When replacing the

[Steve_s]

Glad you got there!
 
I will reassemble my scrap camera now, so if you run into problems during assembly, post the question and I will try to answer while the procedure is fresh in my mind. I don't know if you took off all the frame-counter lev

[Steve_s]

Something I missed last time round: When you are putting back the timing delay, the lever that fits on the split shaft in the timing control has to be in position in the delay mechanism as you do it. You can't get it on after the delay is fitted.

[L_n_h]

Ok thanks for these details -will watch out for them as we get on. And yes, I did take off the frame counter levers you mentioned.
 
However, theres a spot of bother at the moment. The film mechanism wound on ok and the camera shutter fired at th

[Steve_s]

I hope I don't have to try to figure out exactly how the release and mirror mechanism work! With the front plate off, if you push lever D to its forward, cocked position, pushing the long vertical lever forward (or pressing the release button) fli

[L_n_h]

Good news: You dont have to figure out exactly how the mirror/release mech works!
 
There were 2 problems at work. Firstly with the back half of the camera, the catch was indeed not hooking onto the lever C -thats why it fired upon winding. Dont kn

[Steve_s]

Just to explain the workings of the frame counter: Immediately below the counter disc is the ratchet-wheel, with the 2 thin metal pawls engaged with it. The lower pawl is the one that pushes the frame-counter disc forward (clockwise) when you wind on. T

[L_n_h]

Its done. The camera is back together and all looks to be in order. The only thing to do now is test it with a film to see if its lightproof -which will take some time to use up the remaining 34 out of 36 exp of the film thats currently in the other jamme

[Steve_s]

Well done! The next one will be a lot easier. Re. light-seals: ALL old Prakticas need the light seal at the hinge replacing, apart from some later cameras (1980s?) which use a higher density foam and some which use a velvety material. Everything else is

[L_n_h]

OK, will check that out. The double-sided 'tape' in my drawer turned out to be d.s.-mounting tape, which is a bit like foam draught-excluder. It looked far too thick to stick the plastic backing onto the camera body as it would stick out too much;